Nearly everyone owns a pair of jeans, and most of us have only the vaguest idea of what we bought. The labels in shops and online use a vocabulary that sounds technical: raw, selvedge, rigid, stretch, washed, weights measured in ounces. Some of it is marketing, but much of it is genuinely useful. Once you understand what the terms describe, choosing denim becomes much easier, and so does keeping it in good condition.
What denim is
Denim is a sturdy cotton fabric woven in a twill pattern, which gives it a diagonal ribbed texture. In the classic version, the warp threads, which run lengthwise, are dyed indigo, while the weft threads, which run across, are left white or undyed. This is why denim is blue on the outside and paler on the inside, and why it fades in a characteristic way: wear and washing wear away the indigo at the surface, revealing the lighter thread beneath.
That construction explains almost everything about how denim behaves. Heavier, tighter fabric lasts longer. Deeper indigo fades more dramatically. Fabric that is not treated or pre-washed shrinks and changes shape in ways that finished fabric does not.
Weight
Denim weight is usually quoted in ounces per square yard of fabric. It is the quickest way to describe how a pair will feel and behave.
- Lighter weights, roughly in the low teens of ounces and below, are softer and more flexible, and tend to feel comfortable immediately. They suit warmer weather and everyday wear, and they do not usually wear in as dramatically.
- Mid weights are the most common in ready-to-wear jeans, and offer a balance between comfort and durability.
- Heavier weights, from around 14 ounces up, are stiffer and hardier, and take time to soften. They tend to hold their shape, and to develop pronounced fading and creasing.
There is no best weight, only a good fit for how you will wear them. A heavy pair can feel like armour in the first weeks and is wonderful in cool weather; a lighter pair is far easier in a warm office. Brands do not use the same method of measuring, and the weight of the finished garment may differ from the weight of the fabric before treatment, so treat the number as a guide.
Raw, rinsed and washed
The finish of the denim affects both how it looks and how it behaves.
Raw or dry denim has not been washed after it is woven and dyed. It is stiff, dark and deeply coloured, and it develops fading patterns that reflect how you wear it: creases behind the knees, whiskers at the hips, honeycombs at the back of the knees. Enthusiasts value it for exactly that reason. It also requires patience and some care, because the dye can transfer on to light furniture and shoes in the early weeks.
Rinsed denim has been given a light wash to remove some of the stiffness and excess dye. It is a halfway house: more comfortable straight away, with less of the dramatic change.
Washed and distressed denim has been treated, often heavily, to produce a particular look, whether a soft faded blue, a worn-in appearance or deliberate damage. These pairs arrive looking as they will for a long time, and they have little to teach you about ageing. They are the easiest to wear and the least dramatic.
Selvedge
You will often see the word selvedge, sometimes spelled selvage, on higher-priced jeans. It refers to the self-finished edge of a piece of fabric, which on traditional shuttle looms is woven so that it does not fray. In a pair of selvedge jeans, this edge is visible on the inside of the outer leg seam, often with a coloured thread running through it, and it appears when you turn up the hem.
Selvedge is a mark of a particular kind of weaving, and it is often associated with higher quality, but it does not guarantee a better pair on its own. The fabric, the construction and the fit matter as much. Treat it as a pleasant detail and a clue to the maker’s priorities, not as a measure of value.
Rigid or stretch
Many modern jeans include a small proportion of elastane, which gives them stretch. It makes them more comfortable and forgiving, particularly in a slim cut, and they tend to feel relaxed from the first wear.
The trade-offs are practical. Stretch denim can lose its shape over time, bagging at the knees and seat, and it does not age in quite the same way as rigid cotton. Heat can damage the elastic fibres, so hot washing and tumble drying are best avoided. Rigid denim is less forgiving at first, but it holds its form and tends to develop a more individual look. It is a matter of preference, and many people own both.
Choosing a fit
Fit is more important than any of the vocabulary above. A few checks are worth making in the fitting room.
- The waist. It should sit comfortably without gaping at the back. Rigid denim will relax a little with wear, so a snug fit is expected at first, though it should not be painful.
- The seat and thigh. You should be able to sit and move without pulling or restriction.
- The leg line. Straight, tapered, slim and relaxed cuts all work for different people. Choose the one that suits how you dress and move.
- The length. A pair that is slightly long can be hemmed, and the original hem can often be retained by a tailor if you care about the look of the fade.
- Shrinkage. If the pair is unwashed or untreated, ask or check the label for guidance. Some denim shrinks noticeably on the first wash.
Washing and care
How often to wash jeans is one of the most argued questions in menswear. The sensible answer is: less often than you think, and always according to the label.
- Wash when they need it, because of dirt or smell, not on a schedule. Frequent washing wears denim out and fades it faster. Airing them out between wears refreshes them for many people.
- Turn them inside out to protect the surface and reduce fading.
- Use a cool wash and a gentle cycle, and a detergent suited to dark colours. Cool water protects the dye and reduces shrinkage.
- Avoid the tumble dryer if you can. Heat is hard on denim and especially on stretch fibres. Line drying or drying flat is gentler.
- Wash dark and raw denim separately, at least at first, because the dye can transfer on to other clothes.
- Follow the care label, and treat any other advice as a supplement to it. A label is the maker’s instruction for that specific fabric.
Some people suggest freezing or hand washing in a bath as alternatives, and these have loyal followers. Whether they work as promised is a matter of debate. The safer course is to wash gently and as infrequently as is comfortable.
Repairs and ageing
A pair of jeans can last a long time if you repair small problems early. Fraying at the hem, worn pocket linings and thinning at the inner thigh are all common, and all fixable by a competent tailor or repair specialist. A small mend, done before a hole appears, is easier and less visible than a patch.
Denim ages best when you wear it, so a pair you actually reach for is likely to develop the most character. The fades and creases that develop over the months are a record of how you live in them, and are the main pleasure of good denim.
The short version
Learn the vocabulary, and let it guide you to the weight and finish that suits your life. Pay attention to fit before anything else, wash less and more gently than you think you need to, and mend early. A good pair of jeans is a quiet investment, and rewards the attention you give it.
