Colder weather and indoor heating leave many people with skin that feels tight, rough or itchy. This article explains what a moisturiser actually does, how the NHS distinguishes lotions, creams and ointments, how and when to apply them, and the safety points that rarely appear on the tub.
What a moisturiser does for dry skin
The NHS uses the word emollient for what most people call a moisturiser: a product applied directly to the skin. According to the NHS, an emollient forms a protective film that traps moisture in the skin. It describes them as useful for dry, itchy or scaly skin, and for conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and ichthyosis, where they can help prevent inflammation and flare-ups.
The point worth holding on to is that this is a barrier function. A moisturiser does not add health to skin from the outside; it slows moisture loss from the surface. That is why the NHS guidance focuses on how you use the product, meaning how much, how often and when, as much as on which one you pick.
Lotion, cream or ointment: how the NHS tells them apart
The NHS describes the main formats by how thick and how greasy they are. The thicker the product, the more moisturising it tends to be, and the less pleasant it can feel in the daytime.
| Format | How the NHS describes it | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Lotion | Thin, spreads easily, less moisturising | Hairy or damaged skin, including weeping eczema |
| Spray | Absorbs quickly | Hard-to-reach areas, and sore or infected skin that should not be touched |
| Cream | Not very greasy, absorbed quickly | Daytime use |
| Ointment | Greasy, thick and very moisturising, usually preservative-free | Very dry, thickened skin, and night-time use |
Two details in that table matter. First, ointments are usually preservative-free, which the NHS notes can help sensitive skin, but they should not be used on weeping eczema. Second, the formats can be combined: the NHS gives the example of a cream by day and an ointment at night.
The NHS adds that you may need to try several products before finding one that suits you, and that a doctor or pharmacist can advise. Emollients can be bought from a pharmacy without a prescription.
How often should you apply it?
The NHS emollients page says they can be used whenever skin feels dry or tight, and describes them as very safe and impossible to overuse. Its stated ideal is at least three or four times a day, with particular attention to the hands and face, which are the most exposed.
Not every NHS page gives the same figure. The NHS guidance on treating atopic eczema, a specific skin condition, says to apply emollients as often as possible and at least twice a day, and to keep using them even when the eczema improves. The two are consistent in spirit: more often is better, and twice daily is a minimum for someone managing eczema rather than a target for everyone with a dry patch.
The NHS also names useful moments to apply:
- soon after washing, bathing or showering, once the skin has been patted dry
- before activities that irritate the skin, such as gardening
- before and after swimming, leaving time to absorb before getting in the water
- on babies’ hands and cheeks before mealtimes
Does the timing after washing really matter?
Yes, and it costs nothing to change. The NHS advice is to apply an emollient as soon as the skin has been patted dry after a wash, bath or shower. Patting rather than rubbing is deliberate: the NHS says to rinse and pat dry without rubbing when using an emollient for washing, and to smooth products on gently in the direction hair grows rather than rubbing them in.
That direction of application has a reason. The NHS says it helps avoid blocking hair follicles. If the skin develops blocked or inflamed follicles, which can lead to boils, the NHS lists that among the reactions that warrant a word with a GP, nurse or pharmacist.
Can a moisturiser replace soap?
For dry or itchy skin, the NHS says everyday soaps, shampoos and shower gels can dry the skin out, and recommends leave-on emollients instead. Many can double as a wash.
The NHS describes the method like this:
- Mix about a teaspoon of a leave-on emollient or soap substitute with a little warm water in the palm of your hand.
- Spread it over damp or dry skin.
- Rinse, then pat dry without rubbing.
It will not foam like soap, but the NHS says it cleans just as well. If stinging does not settle after rinsing, the NHS advises asking a pharmacist for a different product. The NHS also notes that emollient soap substitutes for the bath or shower are not usually available on its prescriptions, so this is typically a pharmacy purchase.
One older product comes with a warning. The NHS says aqueous cream is no longer recommended as an emollient because it contains sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), which can irritate the skin, although some people still find it useful as a soap substitute.
What if you also use a steroid cream?
Some people with eczema or other inflamed skin conditions use a prescribed or pharmacist-recommended treatment alongside a moisturiser. The NHS says to leave 20 to 30 minutes between the emollient and the other treatment, and to ask a doctor which should go on first. As a worked example, if the emollient goes on at 08:00, the other treatment would wait until between 08:20 and 08:30 at the earliest. This is the kind of detail a pharmacist can confirm for your own situation.
Safety points that rarely make the label
Fire
The NHS is direct on this: keep emollients away from fire, flames and cigarettes, whether they are paraffin-based or paraffin-free. Dressings, clothing and bedding that have been exposed to emollients can catch fire easily. The NHS says hot washing reduces the build-up but does not remove it completely. The eczema treatment page repeats the advice to avoid naked flames and smoking.
Infection
Take product from a pot or tub with a clean spoon or spatula rather than dipping in with your fingers. The NHS eczema guidance similarly recommends a spoon or pump dispenser, and says not to share products.
Slipping
Moisturised skin and a wet bath make a slippery combination. The NHS suggests laying a non-slip mat, towel or sheet in the bath, shower or on tiles, wearing protective gloves, and afterwards cleaning the bath or shower with hot water and washing-up liquid, then drying it with kitchen towel.
When is dry skin more than dry skin?
Most dry skin is an annoyance rather than a medical issue, but the NHS lists situations where advice is needed. For the moisturiser itself, contact a GP, nurse or pharmacist if you notice:
- burning, stinging or overheating that does not settle after a few days, which the NHS says is often caused by an ingredient
- blocked or inflamed hair follicles that may lead to boils
- a facial rash that aggravates acne
If a skin condition is severe, the NHS says to see a GP, nurse or health visitor, as stronger treatment may be needed. For eczema specifically, the NHS says to ask for an urgent GP appointment or contact NHS 111 if the skin is blistered, crusty, leaking fluid or has pus-filled spots, if it is painful, swollen or warm, if it suddenly worsens or spreads, or if you have a high temperature or feel generally unwell.
Dry, cracked skin that keeps returning on particular areas can also be contact dermatitis, where a substance such as a soap, a detergent or a cosmetic is the trigger. Readers interested in how that plays out in practice can read about winter hands and contact dermatitis, which applies equally to anyone, not only men. Because fragrance and preservatives are common culprits for irritation, the guide to reading a cosmetics label is a useful companion. And if a new product is being added to a routine, the principle of changing one thing at a time, set out in the piece on starting retinol slowly, makes it easier to tell which product caused a reaction.
A simple winter routine, using the official advice
Pulling the NHS guidance together, a low-fuss approach looks like this:
- Choose the format to suit the skin and the time of day: a cream or lotion for daytime, an ointment for very dry areas or at night.
- Apply generously and soon after washing, while the skin is still damp from patting dry.
- Smooth it on in the direction of hair growth, and pay extra attention to hands and face.
- Consider a leave-on emollient in place of soap or shower gel if skin is dry or itchy.
- Use a clean spoon for tubs, and keep emollient-treated clothing and bedding away from flames and cigarettes.
- Stop and speak to a pharmacist or GP if the skin stings, burns or reacts.
Choosing by feel, checking by results
A moisturiser works best as a habit rather than a one-off fix, and the NHS framing is practical: the right product is the one that suits your skin, applied often, at the right moments. The decisions that matter most are format, frequency and timing, and the safety points are small additions to the routine. Persistent dryness, skin that cracks or weeps, or any sign of infection is a reason to move on from self-care to a professional.
This article is general information, not medical advice. If your skin is persistently dry, painful or infected, or you are unsure which product suits you, speak to a pharmacist, your GP or a dermatologist.
Sources: NHS (Emollients); NHS (Emollients, tests and treatments); NHS (Atopic eczema, treatment)
