Determine the cause
If the flakes on your scalp are quite small and noticeably, well, dry, this points to a dry scalp. “Dry scalp can be caused by a variety of things, such as changes in climate, overwashing your hair, and sometimes even genetics,” says Melendez. Because it can come from many different and seemingly harmless daily activities, it may be hard to pinpoint exactly what the heck is going on, so Melendez has a tip: Only shampoo your hair a max of twice per week to not strip the hair of any of its natural oils.
If the dry scalp is not a result of environmental factors or something in your routine, there’s a good chance it could be due to a scalp condition such as seborrheic dermatitis (or, as most people know it, dandruff). Dandruff will appear as yellowish or white larger, oily flakes that may clump together.
Now, if you notice the flakes are much thicker and almost plaque-like, often combined with itchy, swollen, or raised skin, you most likely have a chronic condition known as psoriasis, which will require medical attention as it won’t respond to regular dandruff treatments. And if you don’t know WTF is going on at all—or have any sort of Q’s—don’t just rely on Google, go to your derm.
Look at the ingredients
As Dr. Mikailov has previously shared with Cosmo, anyone dealing with a dry scalp should look for shampoos with: (1) moisturizing, plant-based oils (like coconut oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, argan oil, and camellia oil); (2) chemical exfoliators (like salicylic acid, azelaic acid, bakuchiol, and lactic acid); and (3) soothing ingredients (like CBD, aloe, and vitamin B5).
If you’re working with dandruff, you’ll need to grab an antifungal shampoo formulated with ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine, or salicylic acid, all of which will help curb your scalp’s yeast production to minimize flakes. Just note: If you don’t see an improvement after six weeks, head to your dermatologist for a prescription-strength shampoo and/or topical steroid.
You’ll also want to avoid any harsh or irritating formulas when dealing with a dry scalp, which means limiting your use of shampoos containing sulfates or fragrance—including essential oils (like peppermint and rosemary hair oil). Though not everyone has issues tolerating essential oils, they can often trigger irritation in anyone with sensitive skin, which can exacerbate dry-scalp issues.
Know when to see a dermatologist
Though most cases of dry scalp and dandruff can be treated and maintained with an over-the-counter shampoo, if you have been treating it and it has either (a) not been getting better, (b) getting worse, or (c) at any point becomes swollen or painful, you absolutely need to make a visit to your dermatologist. If necessary, they can prescribe prescription-strength steroids or patch-test you to determine if you have a skin allergy.