The Best Looks We Saw at Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2022

For the uninitiated, Lovechild 1979, led by creative director Anne-Dorthe Larsen and assisted by an all-female design team, makes elevated wares for the modern woman. Feminine, tailored, and straight-up covetable, her earth-toned fall lineup easily transitions into early spring.

Helmed by designer Brigitte Raben Olrik, Rabens Saloner is known for effortless pieces that take you from morning to evening (with a few minor adjustments). This emerald slip dress, for instance, looks just as sleek paired with boots as it does layered over a turtleneck, under a blazer, and finished with pointed-toe mules. An ideal fall outfit.

Tennis, anyone? Behold, the bridal-meets-sportswear look courtesy of Designers’ Nest, a nonprofit talent incubator that supports fashion graduates hailing from Nordic countries. We love the tailored bustier and full skirt with flip-flops for summer; add a headband and wristband and you’re ready for some good old-fashioned (and high-fashion) games, too.

The Copenhagen-based label founded in 2018 takes pride in reworking existing items and giving them new life, a shining example of CPHFW’s sustainable mindset. Fun fact: (Di-) means “two, double, twice,” alluding to the process of one (pre-existing material) becoming two…or many. Its show was the talk of the cool-kid set.

Another harbinger of all things eco, Skall Studio, founded by sister duo Julie and Marie Skall in 2014, employs a conscious approach to every step in the production cycle, with designs woven from natural materials and made to last. And personally, we’re down with keeping this sweater vest from its latest, dare we say cozy, collection forever.

Danish designer Stine Goya has injected color and effortless cool into the Scandi fashion scene ever since founding her eponymous label in 2006. With playful patterns and silhouettes in a variety of textures, the looks are tempting, wearable, and timeless all at once. Set against the backdrop of computerized screens, the fall collection really popped.

A. Roege Hove continues to free the nipple. The conceptual knitwear brand, which showed its fall collection at the Overgaden along the canal, takes a highly modern approach to design, with barely-there silhouettes that beg to be worn on a night out, paired with red wine (fittingly served to showgoers). Look to this label for your revenge wardrobe.

Day Birger et Mikkelsen’s fall collection moves with the wearer. The Scandinavian brand with a bohemian bent, which relaunched in 2021, feels minimalist and refined, with flowy dresses cinched in all the right places, and smartly paired with knee-high boots.

With fresh ‘fits rooted in menswear, Soulland’s collections are always contemporary and forward-thinking. Case in point: This chic take on the preppy polo dress in a liquid silhouette, complete with subtle bell sleeves and a midi-length cut.

Held in a former distillery in Amager, Baum und Pferdgarten’s fall/winter 2022 runway show, titled “Pursuing Polaris,” was a nod to the arctic north, rife with contrasting textures (see: knit half-zips with silk skirts) and fun, practical accessories like puffer scarves and balaclavas.

One thing about CPHFW is it churns out pieces that are wearable and—unlike other cities—actually sold in stores. We’re falling hard for Malene Birger’s entire fall collection, which, although based out of Denmark, feels decidedly New York. Fusing comfort with easy elegance, creative director Maja Dixdotter took her inspiration from Florence, where she sketched the collection based on the city’s golden and sandy color palette. In a press release, she says, “I take a maximalist approach to minimalism, so we’ve assembled the season in a way that feels rich and exaggerated but speaks to a refined character.”

Beyond its inherent sense of style, seamlessly blending high-end fashion codes with streetwear, Wood Wood is a brand that’s fully intertwined with the culture. Having collaborated with everyone from Rowing Blazers to FILA and Garfield (yes, the cat), WW’s collections define trends. For fall, we’re particularly into the shearling-lined leather jackets and double-breasted coats.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s collections have international appeal, which makes sense considering the designer cut his teeth at Dior, Balenciaga, and Alexander McQueen before stepping out on his own. The latest, presented at the Statens Museum for Kunst, featured thoughtful tailoring and textural layers inspired by modernist artist Georgia O’Keeffe, whose works were not-so-coincidentally on display.

In tandem with its digital presentation, Marimekko partnered with Danish visual artist Trine Søndergaard to open an exhibition, “New Folk – New Traditions,” that showcases many of the Finnish design house’s inspirations for fall 2022; mainly, creative riffs on classic tailoring and layering techniques, with clever plays on proportion. “Layering different pieces with a different function allows the wearer to style the same piece up or down for a myriad of occasions and weathers,” says creative director Rebekka Bay in a press release. Marimekko’s archive prints from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s in soft, muted colors are designed to be worn solo or paired with your go-to pieces. (Note the socks and Birks combo.)

One of the most exciting talents debuting at CPHFW, Jade Cropper, who’s already generated buzz in the U.S. for dressing the Kardashians, crafts pieces⁠—in classic Danish fashion⁠—from waste and recycled materials. The designer, who launched her Stockholm-based label in 2020, has built her business on sexy asymmetric designs sold via direct-to-consumer micro drops. Cropper’s work is largely inspired by her grandmother: “Way ahead of her time, she was everything I want to be – bold, liberated, a woman living by her own rules,” she says in a press release.

Ganni is all about having a good time, and in lieu of a show, the cult-favorite Danish brand made the best of a pandemic situation by hosting screenings of its digital performance, titled “Ganni Love Forever Ever,” in cities from Copenhagen to London and Paris, and even sent personal-sized cakes to those stuck at home. Attended (digitally and in-person) by its faithful crew of #GanniGirls, the fall collection, a live-on-tape concert by Danish performer Jada, was an homage to creative director Ditte Reffstrup’s love of ‘90s music. The resulting looks included grungy checks, sequins, and power suits that would make Courtney Love proud, accessorized with bow details and pillow-shaped bags in recycled nylon, furthering Ganni’s sustainable efforts.